ADDRESSING UNIQUE AGE CONCERNS
By April Zangl
THE BEST ESTHETICIANS are focused on achieving the best results for their clients. They know that understanding their clients’ specific skin care concerns will help them to form-fit a treatment and home care regimen that delivers the desired end result. This solution-based approach provides the best customer service while building better client loyalty and referrals.
Peptides are multifunctional, results-driven ingredients that address a vast array of concerns. These amino acid sequences control and direct all aspects of cellular function and facilitate intercellular communication. Within skin care, peptides have been shown to treat multiple concerns—from aging to acne to rosacea—and there is a growing interest in peptides in therapeutics.
Back in the 1970s, the average frequency of peptides entering clinical trials was just over one per year. Ten and 20 years later, the number grew to five to 10 per year respectively, and now it’s estimated that 500 to 600 peptides are in pre-clinical development for therapeutics. Peptide therapeutics are maturing and demonstrating potential for addressing a growing range of medical challenges, and there’s no better ingredient for estheticians in treating their clients’ skin care concerns.
It’s not unrealistic to suggest an anti-aging regimen to a customer very early on. People are constantly exposed to different aggressors and free radicals that damage their skin, but the skin of a 30-year-old will have a different anti-aging focus than the skin of a 50-year-old. Here’s a review of those concerns and a few of the most targeted peptides available to meet their needs.
CONCERNS OF THE 20s
The epidermis and dermis are dependent on one another to sustain overall healthy skin function. Among other components, the epidermis is composed of about 50 percent ceramides, 25 percent cholesterol and 10 percent free fatty acids. Should this balance be disturbed, the epidermis becoming dry or dehydrated, an abnormal increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) can result. This disruption can lead to a cascade of events that could increase inflammation. If the epidermis is overexposed to UV rays, an increase in the production of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes could arise. That could lead to a breakdown of the extracellular matrix (ECM) within the dermis, creating wrinkling, laxity and increased signs of visible aging of the epidermis.
Even though the temperatures are cooler and there isn’t as much sunshine in the winter, daily use of a broad spectrum sun protection product is necessary as many UV rays remain constant throughout the year, and the reflection off of the snow and through clouds poses a threat to skin.
PREVENTION/DELAY OF ACNE & AGING
During our 20s, skin is plump and youthful; however, it’s during this time that free radicals begin doing damage underneath the surface. With constant sun exposure and lifestyles that may not be focused on wellness, the premature aging process begins. Also, acne may still linger from teenage years, arise periodically with the menstrual cycle or simply be present in adulthood for no obvious reason.
PEPTIDE PRESCRIPTION FOR THE 20s:
• Azeloyl Bis-Peptide-10 (formerly Tetrapeptide-23) (ATP 23): An anti-glycation peptide shown to protect skin against reactive scavengers and increase antioxidant activity.
• Glutathione: An antioxidant peptide shown to guard against free radicals and contribute to brighter skin.
• Oligopeptide-10 (Granactive Acne): A clearing peptide shown to cause a lethal imbalance within acne bacteria while neutralizing inflammation.
• Pentapeptide-28 (Chondricare IS): An energizing peptide shown to stimulate cell metabolism and shield mitochondria from DNA damage.
• Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate (Peptide Q10): A CoQ10 activating peptide that enhances Coenzyme Q10, the skin cell’s energy generation that increases antioxidant protection.
CONCERNS OF THE 30s
UNEVEN TONE & CROW’S FEET
Once we enter our 30s, environmental and free radical damage starts to appear in the form of dull, lackluster, lifeless skin. Skin regeneration and cell turnover begins to decline, leading to a dull complexion and uneven skin tone. The use of harsh ingredients starts to take its toll on skin.
PEPTIDE PRESCRIPTION FOR THE 30s:
• Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), Acetyl Hexapeptide-30 (Inyline), Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP 8), Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate (Syn-Ake), Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract (Myoxinol) and Pentapeptide-18 (Leuphasyl): A variety of relaxing peptides that work within the neuromuscular junction to relax repetitive muscle contractions in a variety of ways either pre or post-synapse.
• Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate (Perfection Peptide P3): An exfoliating peptide shown to gently increase skin cell turnover.
• Pearl Peptide (Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein) and Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment (Kombucha): Radiance enhancing peptides that improve skin tone and clarity.
CONCERNS OF THE 40s
FINE LINES & HYPERPIGMENTATION
Significant dullness, aging and dark spots become more apparent in our 40s. Photo-aging and dark spots are more prominent while elastin begins to decline, leading to the appearance of fine lines.
PEPTIDE PRESCRIPTION FOR THE 40S:
• Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide (Peptiskin): A triple action peptide that works to boost multiple types of collagen, reduce collagen breakdown and inhibit collagen cross-linking.
• Myristoyl Tripeptide-31 (Dermapep A350): A retinoic-like peptide that works to reduce the appearance of fine lines while enhancing luminosity.
• Oligopeptide-68 (B-White): A brightening peptide that regulates the actions that cause pigment.
• Tripeptide-1 and Tripeptide-10 Citrulline (Trylagen): Peptides that work in multiple ways to not only boost collagen, reduce collagen degradation and also control collagen fibril dimension and organization.
• Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (Syn-Coll): A volumizing peptide that works to activate natural growth factors to boost collagen and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
CONCERNS OF THE 50s
DEEPER WRINKLES,DEHYDRATION & SAGGING
In our 50s, the decrease of collagen and elastin impairs the structure and firmness of the skin. Other supportive protein structures within the skin such as laminin begin to decline, causing more pronounced sagging skin. The skin’s barrier is compromised, and this impacts moisture retention. The skin becomes dehydrated and wrinkles appear more pronounced.
PEPTIDE PRESCRIPTION FOR THE 50S:
• Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2 (Thymulen 4): A defensive peptide shown to fight deficiencies in the skin’s immune system, which reinforces the skin’s barrier and prevents water loss.
• Acetyl Hexapeptide-37 (Diffuporine): A hydration peptide that improves water transportation within the skin and restores barrier function.
• Acetyl Hexapeptide-38 (Adifyline): A volumizing peptide that restores fatty tissue volume in specific areas of the facial contour for more facial fullness.
• Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine and Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate (Syn-Tacks): A dual peptide that supports the Dermal Epidermal Junction and enhances multiple structural proteins that improve the skin’s integrity, communication and nourishment.
• Whey Protein Lactus Proteinum (MPC Complex): A plumping peptide that nourishes and regenerates mature skin while stimulating wound healing.
• Hexapeptide-10 (Serilesine): An anti-gravity peptide with a dual action of activating the fibroblasts and keratinocytes for increased strength within the Dermal Epidermal Junction.
• Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester (Idealift): A lifting peptide that has a triple action effect on stimulating elastin through enhanced cohesion, firmness and density.
CONCERNS OF THE 60s
REDNESS & SENSITIVITY
Along with all the concerns of our 50s, in our 60s, thinning skin caused by a loss of various supportive proteins, reduced skin cell turnover, and a compromised barrier, can cause sensitivity and redness. It also causes dry skin to become even more visible.
PEPTIDE PRESCRIPTION FOR THE 60S:
• Acetyl Tetrapeptide-33 (Telangyn): An anti-redness peptide shown to reduce facial redness and the inflammation within the skin.
• Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 (Neutrazen): A neutralizing peptide shown to prevent and reverse neurogenic inflammation, and calm the feelings associated with sensitivity.
Peptides in skin care have evolved into solution-based ingredients that address concerns unique to each decade. With more than 60 different peptides demonstrating age-reversing effects, estheticians and other skin care professionals now have the ingredient knowledge to deliver customized solutions to different age groups, and with more precision than ever before.
The evolution of peptides is paving the way for future advancements in topical anti-aging solutions. Science is just beginning to realize the full potential of peptides, and creating a new standard for results that can be achieved from the use of topically applied products.
April Zangl
has been HydroPeptide’s CEO and co-formulator since 2004, and she works closely with HydroPeptide’s scientific advisory board to research new peptides and their benefits. Zangl is passionate about HydroPeptide’s mission to provide multifunctional products that deliver results without damaging the skin while creating a luxurious, upscale experience. April holds a bachelor of science degree in Health and Wellness Promotion from Brigham Young University.
HydroPeptide South Africa distributor enquiries can be send to Les Nouvelles Esthetiques on info@lesnouvelles.co.za
